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How to Read a Knitting Pattern (Even If You're Brand New)

Stitch'n Craft Team · · 5 min read
How to read a knitting pattern — decoding abbreviations and symbols

Why Knitting Patterns Look So Confusing

When you first open a knitting pattern, it can feel like reading a foreign language. Rows of abbreviations, asterisks, brackets, and parentheses — it's intimidating. But here's the secret: every pattern follows the same basic structure, and once you understand the framework, you can read any pattern.

Think of pattern abbreviations like a compression algorithm. Writing "knit 2, purl 2" takes up a lot of space when you need to repeat it 200 times across a sweater. Abbreviations make patterns compact and scannable.

Anatomy of a Knitting Pattern

Every knitting pattern — from a simple dishcloth to a complex colorwork sweater — contains these sections:

1. Header Information

  • Skill level — Beginner, intermediate, advanced
  • Finished measurements — The actual size of the completed item
  • Materials — Yarn (weight, yardage, color), needles (size), notions (stitch markers, tapestry needle, etc.)
  • Gauge — The number of stitches and rows per 4 inches (10 cm). This is not optional.

2. Abbreviations List

Most patterns include a list of abbreviations used. Even if you know them by heart, check this section — some designers use non-standard abbreviations.

3. Special Stitches

If the pattern uses a stitch pattern that isn't a standard abbreviation, it'll be explained here. This might be a cable pattern, a lace motif, or a textured stitch.

4. Instructions

The actual row-by-row (or round-by-round) directions. This is where you'll spend most of your time.

5. Finishing

How to sew pieces together (if applicable), block the finished item, and add any final details.

Essential Abbreviations

Here are the abbreviations you'll see in almost every knitting pattern:

Abbreviation Meaning
k Knit
p Purl
st(s) Stitch(es)
RS Right side (the "public" side of your work)
WS Wrong side (the "private" side)
CO Cast on
BO Bind off (also written as "cast off")
rep Repeat
inc Increase
dec Decrease
k2tog Knit 2 stitches together (a right-leaning decrease)
ssk Slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease)
yo Yarn over (creates a hole — used in lace)
sl Slip a stitch (move it from one needle to the other without working it)
pm Place marker
sm Slip marker
rnd Round (when knitting in the round)
beg Beginning
cont Continue
rem Remaining

Reading the Symbols

Asterisks and Semicolons

Asterisks mark a section that needs to be repeated:

  • *k2, p2; rep from * to end means: knit 2, purl 2, and repeat this sequence across the entire row.

Brackets and Parentheses

These group stitches together, usually with a repeat count:

  • [k1, p1] 5 times means: do k1, p1 five times in a row (10 stitches total)
  • (k2tog) twice means: knit 2 together, then knit 2 together again

Multiple Sizes

Many patterns are written for multiple sizes, shown in parentheses:

  • CO 80 (88, 96, 104) sts
  • The first number is the smallest size, and subsequent sizes follow in parentheses
  • Pick your size and highlight or circle those numbers throughout the pattern before you start

Walking Through a Real Example

Let's read a simple hat pattern together:

CO 80 sts. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.
Rnd 1-10: *k2, p2; rep from * around.
Rnd 11-40: K all sts.

Here's what's actually happening:

  1. Cast on 80 stitches. Put 80 loops on your needles.
  2. Join for working in the round. Connect the first and last stitch to form a circle. "Being careful not to twist" means make sure your cast-on edge isn't spiraling around the needle.
  3. Rounds 1-10: Ribbing. Knit 2, purl 2 all the way around. This creates the stretchy band at the bottom of the hat.
  4. Rounds 11-40: Stockinette. Knit every stitch. When knitting in the round, knitting every round creates stockinette (the smooth "V" pattern).

That's it — the abbreviations are just shorthand for simple actions.

Decreases: Where Patterns Get Interesting

The hat continues:

Rnd 41: *k8, k2tog; rep from * around. (72 sts)
Rnd 42: K all sts.
Rnd 43: *k7, k2tog; rep from * around. (64 sts)
Rnd 44: K all sts.

See the pattern? Every other round, you're knitting fewer stitches before each decrease. The number in parentheses at the end tells you how many stitches you should have after that round — use it as a checkpoint.

Tips for Following Patterns

Use a row counter. Losing your place is the most common frustration. A digital row counter that you can glance at (or that reminds you when to do something) saves real time and prevents mistakes.

Read the whole pattern before starting. Not to memorize it — just to understand the overall structure. Are there separate pieces? When do decreases start? Are there any techniques you need to look up?

Mark your size. If the pattern includes multiple sizes, go through the entire pattern and highlight your size's numbers. This prevents accidentally following the wrong size mid-row.

Take notes. When you make a modification or discover something that works better, write it down. Your future self will thank you.

Don't be afraid to frog. "Frogging" means ripping out your work (rip-it, rip-it — like a frog). Every knitter does it. It's not failure; it's part of the process.

What's Next?

Once you're comfortable reading patterns, you'll find that most patterns are surprisingly similar in structure. The vocabulary is finite, and the logic is consistent. Within a few projects, you'll read patterns as fluently as recipes.

And when you're ready to go beyond following patterns, there are tools that can help you create your own — from simple modifications to fully custom designs generated from your exact measurements.

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